Chinon and Eleanor of Aquitaine: a meeting at the height of power

Eleanor of Aquitaine a legendary sovereign at the heart of the fortress of Chinon

In the majestic setting of the royal fortress of Chinon, you can discover the fascinating story of Eleanor of Aquitaine: plunge into the world of a legendary queen through her reconstructed bedroom, for a gripping immersion in the heart of the Middle Ages. In Eleanor’s private flats, discover the intimacy of a queen: the four-poster bed with its rich fabrics, the chests full of her precious robes, the prie-Dieu where she meditates. The mullioned windows let the light filter through to the walls, which are adorned with tapestries in shimmering colours, reflecting the splendour of court life in the 12th century.

From Duchess of Aquitaine to Queen of France

When her father died on the road to Santiago de Compostela, the young Eleanor became Duchess of Aquitaine on 9 April 1137, aged just thirteen (her brother William had died in 1130, making her heir apparent). An exceptional destiny opened up for this heiress to the largest territory in the kingdom of France. In Bordeaux, in Saint-André cathedral, she married the future Louis VII 3 months later. When King Louis VI died on 1 August 1137, the couple were crowned in Bourges in December 1137: Eleanor became Queen of France.

At court, the young sovereign brought the refinement of her Aquitanian culture. Passionate about the arts and the poetry of the troubadours, she breathed new life into a kingdom with more austere customs. Her growing influence with the king did not fail to arouse jealousy among the royal advisors.

Visit the royal fortress of Chinon

Her marriage to Louis VII

This marriage marked the birth of a kingdom of unprecedented dimensions: although they were not part of the royal domain, the immense Duchy of Aquitaine and the County of Poitiers were united with the lands of the Capetians.

The Queen brought troubadours and poets with her and introduced courtly love. She influenced her husband on certain matters (her sister’s marriage, the Toulouse campaign, etc.), but her manners and strong character were at odds with the French court, and tensions arose between the royal couple. These tensions culminated in the Second Crusade in Antioch. After fifteen years and only two daughters, Marie and Alix, Pope Eugene agreed to annul their union in March 1152, on the grounds that they were too closely related. Free once again, the Duchess of Aquitaine waited just eight weeks before marrying the future Henry II of England, opening a new chapter in her extraordinary destiny.

The most powerful heiress in Europe

The Duchy of Aquitaine changed hands, significantly upsetting the territorial balance. Her marriage to Henry Plantagenet, the future King of England, created the largest territorial entity in Western Europe. The continental territories of the Plantagenet Empire now stretched from Scotland to the Pyrenees.

The union produced eight children, including Richard the Lionheart and John Lackland, the future kings of England. In this new context, the new Queen of England also encouraged the arts and the poetry of the troubadours, continuing the legacy of her grandfather William IX. Under her impetus, the court became a radiant cultural centre where artists and poets rubbed shoulders. Her influence transformed the codes of medieval society, making her a major figure of her time. At the same time, she held the powers of a regent in the absence of her husband, Henry II of England, during his countless travels.

Visits and activities in Chinon

In the footsteps of Eleanor today

The collections of the Carroi Museum

In the heart of the medieval town of Chinon, the Carroi Museum houses a fascinating treasure: the cope of Saint-Mexme. This silk and gold fabric, woven at the end of the 11th century, is said to have been given to the canons by Eleanor of Aquitaine on her return from the Second Crusade. Among the major pieces in the collections is a rare series of Romanesque sculptures from the collegiate church of Saint-Mexme, a precious testimony to medieval art in Touraine. At the same time, everyday objects and period documents tell the story of life in the city at the time of the Plantagenets. In the room dedicated to the Middle Ages, a unique collection of seals and coins illustrates the importance of Chinon as a stronghold of royal power in the 12th century.

Chinon, capital of the Plantagenets

A castle at the heart of the empire

Enter the royal fortress of Chinon, favourite residence of Henry II Plantagenet. In the 12th century, this King of England made the castle his continental capital, storing part of the royal treasury here. In the seigniorial dwellings, admire the reconstruction of the royal flats where the couple regularly stayed from 1160 onwards. It was in Fort Saint-Georges that Henry II established the administrative centre for his vast territories. In the chapel of Saint-Mélaine, he breathed his last in 1189, abandoned by his sons who already coveted his inheritance…

Daily life at court

Immerse yourself in the refined atmosphere of the medieval court, where days are organised around meals served in the great hall. On the trestle table, delicate dishes are accompanied by the finest wines from Anjou and Touraine. The troubadours entertained the guests while the servants busied themselves in the royal kitchens. The tufa stone walls housed a refined court, where knights and dignitaries from the four corners of the Plantagenet Empire rubbed shoulders.

Royal visits to the fortress

Between 1160 and 1173, Eleanor and Henry II made numerous visits to Chinon. The Queen of England particularly appreciated this strategic location at the heart of the Plantagenet territories. In her royal bedchamber, now restored with its period furniture, she received many noble visitors.

Admire the preparations for a royal meal as they were in the 12th century: servants bustle about in the kitchens while the queen supervises service in the great hall. The fascinating staging takes you back to the time of Eleanor’s feasts, when refined food and diplomatic discussions were combined. Historians estimate that she spent almost a third of her time in this residence, before events transformed this place of power into a gilded prison.

Visit the Royal Fortress

The Plantagenet areas

Enter the new area dedicated to the powerful Plantagenet dynasty. The model room reveals the impressive extent of their empire, from the coasts of Scotland to the shores of the Pyrenees. Use the touch screens to manipulate the 3D reconstructions to understand how the fortress’s architecture has evolved over the centuries. In the Great Hall, digital devices bring to life the atmosphere of royal feasts. Admire the table laid according to the medieval art of living, garnished with hanaps and other precious dishes. A sound trail plunges you into the hustle and bustle of the kitchens, where the refined dishes served at Eleanor’s court are simmering.

Historical events

Visit the Royal Fortress of Chinon all year round for events that bring the era of Eleanor back to life. A highlight of the summer, the Medieval Festival takes you back to the 12th century, with chivalry shows and demonstrations of medieval crafts. In winter, it’s Christmas in the land of castles!

And all year round, discover the fortress in a fun way, with a monument game (for 3 to 28 players)!

Book a visit to the fortress site

A family torn apart by power

Henry II, husband and King of England

Eleanor’s marriage to Henry II Plantagenet turned the European political chessboard upside down. With a vast empire stretching from Scotland to the Pyrenees, rivalry with King Louis VII (Eleanor’s former husband) was inevitable. But his attention was diverted by many other issues, starting with the restoration of the judicial system and royal finances in England, not forgetting his difficult relationship with the Church of England.

The new king chose Chinon as his base, in the middle of his empire stretching from Scotland to the Pyrenees. With Eleanor, the 1160s marked a turning point in their relationship. Henry’s many infidelities, particularly with the beautiful Rosemonde, drove a wedge between the couple. All the more so as the king increased his interventions in Aquitaine, a territory Eleanor considered to be her personal heritage. At Christmas 1172, their last joint celebration in Chinon barely concealed the tensions that would lead to their sons’ revolt.

Eleanor’s children and the succession

Take a look at the portraits of Eleanor’s ten children in the Plantagenet Room. William, the eldest, died at the age of three. Henry the Younger, crowned during his father’s lifetime, died without an heir. Richard the Lionheart became heir to Aquitaine, while Geoffrey received Brittany. The three daughters, Matilda, Eleanor and Joan, strengthened their alliances with the German Empire, Castile and Sicily through their marriages.
Henry II’s decision to bequeath the castles of Chinon, Loudun and Mirebeau to his last son, Jean sans Terre, angered his elders. This division of territories, a source of family tension, foreshadowed the events to come.

The revolt of the sons against their father

In the spring of 1173, the walls of the fortress echoed with preparations for war. Alongside her sons Henry the Younger, Richard and Geoffrey, Eleanor organised a rebellion against her husband. William I of Scotland and Louis VII of France lent their support to the rebellious princes.
Dressed as a page to go unnoticed, the Queen tried to reach Paris. But Henry II’s men captured her on the road to Blois. In Chinon, the same fortress where she had enjoyed such splendour became her prison. The revolt collapsed after eighteen months of bitter fighting, leaving the sons to beg their father’s forgiveness.

Imprisonment in Chinon

16 years of captivity

November 1173 marked the start of a long period of isolation for Eleanor. Brought back to Chinon under guard, the deposed queen found her room transformed into a gilded cell. The first months of her imprisonment were spent in this fortress that she loved so much, before being transferred to England. The tufa stone walls, witness to her years of glory, now surround her in their heavy silence. Only a few visits from her followers break her solitude, while her sons, one by one, make their submission to their father. This captivity would only come to an end with the death of Henry II in 1189, when his son Richard the Lionheart restored his freedom.

The Queen’s bedroom

This exceptional room has been meticulously reconstructed by historians. Painted decorations in multicoloured geometric patterns adorn the tufa walls, while a sumptuous quilt covers the columned bed. The sculpted seats and light-coloured wooden chests bear witness to the refinement of the period. On the trestle table, admire the everyday objects of a queen: polished bronze mirror, ivory combs and precious illuminated manuscripts. The mullioned windows let soft light filter through the red silk hangings embroidered with gold, creating an intimate atmosphere conducive to the confidences of the ladies-in-waiting.

The last days in the fortress

In autumn 1202, Eleanor returned to the walls of Chinon for the last time. Her son Jean accompanied her on this melancholy journey toFontevraud Abbey, where she chose to end her days. The queen took one last look at this fortress, which witnessed both her glory and her decline. At the age of 80, she outlived eight of her ten children. During her retirement in Anjou, she continued to receive ambassadors and diplomatic messages. Her influence remained intact until she breathed her last on 31 March 1204. Her body joined that of her favourite son, Richard the Lionheart, in the abbey church of Fontevraud.

The legacy of a woman of power

Her influence on medieval culture

Nurtured by the legacy of the Aquitanian troubadours, Eleanor transformed the court into a veritable hotbed of artistic activity. Artists vied with each other to decorate manuscripts with delicate illuminations. Her patronage spread throughout the medieval West: chansons de geste flourished and courtly romances enchanted the evenings.

The Duchess of Aquitaine particularly encouraged literary creation in the vernacular. Under her influence, the Arthurian legends took on new colours, giving rise to the famous figures of Iseult and Guinevere. The rooms of the fortress echoed with the verses of the greatest poets of the 12th century, testifying to the unique refinement of Plantagenet culture.

The legend of Eleanor in Touraine

Over the centuries, popular tales have shaped the myth ofEleanor in Touraine. Tradition even attributes to her the introduction of Loire wines to the English court, making the hillsides of the Chinon region shine all the way to the banks of the Thames. After your visit to the fortress, you can also visit the cellars dug beneath the fortress(Caves M. Plouzeau).

Every year, during the Chinon medieval festival, actors and musicians bring the spirit of Eleanor to life, skilfully blending history and legend to the delight of visitors.

From Poitiers to Fontevraud

Follow in the footsteps of Eleanor, from her birthplace to her final resting place. Born around 1124 in the palace of the Counts of Poitou, William X’s daughter left her mark on these lands. The stained glass window in Saint-Pierre cathedral still bears witness to her presence, while the Salle des Pas Perdus echoes her story. At Fontevraud, the Royal Abbey welcomes you to its majestic nave where the recumbent statue of Eleanor lies. With a book open in her hands, this woman of power still watches over the place she chose as her final resting place, on the borders of her duchy of Aquitaine.