Chinon and Eleanor of Aquitaine: a meeting at the height of power

Eleanor of Aquitaine a legendary sovereign at the heart of the fortress of Chinon

Discover the fascinating story of Eleanor of Aquitaine in the majestic setting of the royal fortress of Chinon. Immerse yourself in the world of a legendary queen through her reconstructed bedroom, for a gripping immersion in the heart of the Middle Ages.

A queen with an exceptional destiny

From Duchess of Aquitaine to Queen of France

On 25 July 1137, the young Eleanor became Duchess of Aquitaine at just fifteen years of age. An exceptional destiny opened up for this heiress to the largest territory in the kingdom of France. In Bordeaux, in St Peter’s Cathedral, she married the future Louis VII. A few weeks later, the couple were crowned in Bourges: Eleanor became Queen of France. At court, the young sovereign brought the refinement of her Aquitanian culture. Passionate about the arts and the poetry of the troubadours, she breathed new life into a kingdom with more austere customs. Her growing influence with the king did not fail to arouse jealousy among the royal advisors.

In the footsteps of Eleanor today

The collections of the Carroi museum

In the heart of the medieval town of Chinon the Carroi-museum houses a fascinating treasure: the cope of Saint-Mexme. This silk and gold fabric, woven at the end of the 11th century, is said to have been given to the canons by Eleanor of Aquitaine on her return from the Second Crusade. Among the most important items in the collections is a rare series of Romanesque sculptures from the collegiate church of Saint-Mexme, a precious testimony to medieval art in Touraine. Everyday objects and period documents tell the story of life in the town at the time of the Plantagenets. In the room dedicated to the Middle Ages, a unique collection of seals and coins illustrates the importance of Chinon as a stronghold of royal power in the twelfth century.

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His marriage to Louis VII

Walk through the rooms of the fortresswhere the echoes of this historic union still resonate. In Bordeaux’s Saint-André cathedral, this alliance marked the birth of a kingdom of unprecedented dimensions: the immense duchy of Aquitaine joined the lands of the Capetians. The life of the royal couple was a balance of splendour and tension. In their wake, troubadours and poets brought courtly love to the French court. But after fifteen years and only two daughters, Marie and Alix, Pope Eugene agreed to annul their union in March 1152, citing their close relationship. Free again, the Duchess of Aquitaine waited just eight weeks before marrying the future Henry II of England, opening a new chapter in her extraordinary destiny.

The most powerful heiress in Europe

Mistress of a territory stretching from the Loire to the Pyrenees, Eleanor profoundly marked her era through her political and cultural influence. At the court of Poitiers, she encouraged the arts and the poetry of the troubadours, perpetuating the legacy of her grandfather William IX.
Her marriage to Henry Plantagenet, future King of England, created the largest territorial entity in Western Europe. , including Richard the Lionheart and John Lackland, future kings of England. The Plantagenets’ continental territories now stretched from Scotland to the Pyrenees.
Under his impetus, the court became a radiant cultural hotbed where artists and poets rubbed shoulders.

Chinon, capital of the Plantagenets

A castle at the heart of the empire

Enter the gates of the royal fortress of Chinon, favourite residence of Henry II Plantagenet. In the 12th century, this King of England made the castle his continental capital, storing part of the royal treasury there.
In the seigneurial dwellings, admire the reconstruction of the royal flats where the couple regularly stayed between 1160 and 1180. The tufa stone walls housed a refined court, where knights, troubadours and dignitaries from the four corners of the empire rubbed shoulders.
Walk through Fort Saint-Georges, where Henry II established the administrative centre of his vast territories. It was here, in the chapel of Saint-Mélaine, that he breathed his last in 1189, abandoned by his sons who were already coveting his inheritance.

Everyday life at court

Plunge into the refined atmosphere of the medieval court, where days are organised around meals served in the great hall. On the trestle table, delicate dishes are accompanied by the finest wines from Anjou and Touraine. The troubadours enchant the guests with their songs of courtly love while the servants bustle about in the royal kitchens.

In Eleanor’s private flats, discover the intimacy of a queen: the four-poster bed with its rich fabrics, the chests filled with her precious dresses, the prie-Dieu where she meditates. The mullioned windows let the light filter through to the walls adorned with tapestries in shimmering colours, silent witnesses to the splendour of court life in the 12th century.

Royal visits to the fortress

Between 1160 and 1173, Eleanor and Henry II made numerous visits to Chinon. The Queen of England particularly appreciated this strategic location at the heart of the Plantagenet territories. In her royal bedchamber, reconstructed today with its period furniture, she received troubadours and noble visitors.

Watch the preparations for a royal meal as they were in the 12th century: the servants bustle about in the kitchens while the queen supervises the service in the great hall. The fascinating staging takes you back to the time of Eleanor’s feasts, when refined food and diplomatic discussions were combined. Historians estimate that she spent almost a third of her time in this residence, before events transformed this place of power into a gilded prison.

Visit the Royal Fortress

The Plantagenet spaces

Enter the new space dedicated to the powerful Plantagenet dynasty. Themodel room reveals the impressive extent of their empire, from the coasts of Scotland to the shores of the Pyrenees. Facing the touch screens, manipulate the 3D reconstructions to understand the architectural evolution of the fortress over the centuries. In the Great Hall, digital devices bring to life the atmosphere of royal feasts. Admire the table laid according to the medieval art of living, garnished with hanaps and other precious crockery. A audio tour plunges you into the bustle of the kitchens, where the refined dishes served at Eleanor’s court are simmering.

Historical events

See you all year round at the royal fortress of Chinon for events that bring the era of Eleanor back to life. The Medieval Festivals, a highlight of the summer, transport you back to the 12th century with their chivalry shows and medieval craft demonstrations. For younger visitors, the P’tite visite d’Aliénor offers a fun and sensory discovery of daily life at court. The whole family can explore the reconstructed kitchen where the refined dishes of the royal table are simmered.

Themed guided tours

Take part in the guided tours specially designed for this anniversary year. Mediators will reveal the secrets of daily life in the 12th century: the medieval table, the arts of war and even the medicine of the time. A 45-minute family tour awaits you to explore the fortress and its mysteries. Book in advance for €13, and discover the royal bedroom and meticulously reconstructed kitchens. On Fridays at 10am, an in-depth guided tour of the floral scenography is offered, followed at 2:30pm by a lecture-workshop on medieval tableware.

A family torn apart by power

Henri II, the husband king of England

The marriage of Eleanor to Henry II Plantagenet turned the European political chessboard upside down. Master of an empire stretching from Scotland to the Pyrenees, the new king chose Chinon as his base. The first years of his reign were marked by a close relationship with Eleanor: he entrusted her with the administration of England, then the government of Aquitaine.
But the 1160s marked a turning point in their relationship. Henry’s numerous infidelities, particularly with the beautiful Rosemonde, drove a wedge between the couple. The king increased his interventions in Aquitaine, a territory Eleanor considered her personal heritage. At Christmas 1172, their last feast together in Chinon already masked the tensions that would lead to their sons’ revolt.

Aliénor’s children and the succession

Consider the portraits of Aliénor’s ten children in the Plantagenet Room. William, the eldest, disappeared at the age of three. Henry the Younger, crowned during his father’s lifetime, died without an heir. Richard the Lionheart becomes heir to Aquitaine, while Geoffrey receives Brittany. The three daughters, Matilda, Eleanor and Joan, strengthened their alliances with the German Empire, Castile and Sicily through their marriages.
Henry II’s decision to bequeath the castles of Chinon, Loudun and Mirebeau to his last son, John Landless, provoked the anger of his elders. This division of territories, a source of family tension, already foreshadowed the tragic events to come.

The revolt of the sons against their father

Spring 1173, the walls of the fortress echo with preparations for war. Alongside her sons Henry the Younger, Richard and Geoffrey, Eleanor organised a rebellion against her husband. William I of Scotland and Louis VII of France lent their support to the rebelling princes.
Dressed as a page to go unnoticed, the queen tried to reach Paris. But Henry II’s men captured her on the road to Blois. In Chinon, the same fortress where she had enjoyed such splendour became her prison. The revolt collapses after eighteen months of bitter fighting, leaving the sons forced to ask their father’s forgiveness.

Imprisonment in Chinon

A 16-year captivity

November 1173 marked the beginning of a long period of isolation for Eleanor. Brought back to Chinon under guard, the deposed queen found her room transformed into a gilded cell. The first months of her imprisonment were spent in this fortress that she loved so much, before being transferred to England. The tufa stone walls, witness to her years of glory, now surround her in their heavy silence. Only a few visits from her followers break her solitude, while her sons, one by one, make their submission to their father. This captivity would not end until the death of Henry II in 1189, when his son Richard the Lionhearted restored his freedom.

The Queen’s chamber

Push open the door to this exceptional room, meticulously reconstructed by historians. Painted decoration in multicoloured geometric patterns adorns the tufa walls, while a sumptuous quilt covers the columned bed. The sculpted seats and light-coloured wooden chests bear witness to the refinement of the period. On the trestle table, admire the everyday objects of a queen: polished bronze mirror, ivory combs and precious illuminated manuscripts. The mullioned windows let soft light filter through the gold-embroidered red silk hangings, creating an intimate atmosphere conducive to the confidences of the ladies-in-waiting.

The last days at the fortress

In the autumn of 1202, Eleanor returned to the walls of Chinon for the last time. Her son Jean accompanied her on this melancholy journey to Fontevraud, where she chose to end her days. The queen took one last look at the fortress that witnessed both her glory and her decline. At the age of 80, she outlived eight of her ten children. In her retirement at the abbey, she continued to receive ambassadors and diplomatic messages. Her influence remained intact until she breathed her last on 31 March 1204. Her body then joined that of her favourite son, Richard the Lionheart, in the abbey church of Fontevraud.

The legacy of a woman of power

Her influence on medieval culture

Nourished by the legacy of the Aquitanian troubadours, Aliénor transformed the court into a veritable artistic hotbed. Poets celebrated courtly love, while artists vied with each other to adorn manuscripts with delicate illuminations. Her patronage radiated throughout the medieval West: chansons de geste flourished and courtly romances enchanted the evenings.

The Duchess of Aquitaine particularly encouraged literary creation in the vernacular. Under her influence, the Arthurian legends took on new colours, giving rise to the famous figures of Iseult and Guinevere. The rooms of the fortress then resounded with the verses of the greatest poets of the 12th century, bearing witness to the unique refinement of the Plantagenêt culture.

The legend of Aliénor in Touraine

Over the centuries, popular tales have shaped the myth of Aliénor in Touraine. Locals still tell how the queen, from her gilded prison in Chinon, is said to have secretly encouraged troubadours to sing of courtly love. Tradition even credits her with introducing Loire wines to the English court, making the hillsides of Chinon shine all the way to the banks of the Thames.

In the cellars dug beneath the fortress, the winegrowers perpetuate this living memory. Every year, during Chinon’s medieval festivals, actors and musicians bring the spirit of Eleanor to life, skilfully blending history and legend to the delight of visitors.

From Poitiers to Fontevraud

Take to the road in the footsteps of Eleanor, from her birthplace to her final resting place. The 82 kilometres that separate Poitiers from Fontevraud take you through a landscape shaped by this Duchess of Aquitaine.

Born around 1124 in the palace of the Counts of Poitou, the daughter of William X left her mark on these lands. The stained glass window in Saint-Pierre Cathedral still bears witness to her presence, while the Salle des Pas Perdus echoes with her story.

At Fontevraud, the Royal Abbey welcomes you to its majestic nave where Eleanor’s recumbent lies. With a book open in her hands, this woman of power still watches over the place she chose as her final resting place, on the borders of her duchy of Aquitaine.

Extend the experience

The Aliénor circuit in the Loire Valley

Cross the historic roads of Aliénor by bike, on a 90-kilometre route linking the Loire à Vélo to the Scandibérique. This unique loop takes you from Chinon to Fontevraud, passing through medieval villages that bear the imprint of the Duchess of Aquitaine.

At Candes-Saint-Martin, admire the collegiate church where Eleanor’s power was manifested through her donations. The route then winds its way to Montsoreau, where the tufa houses tell the story of the 12th-century builders.

Your escapade continues to Fontevraud-l’Abbaye, the eternal home of Eleanor. The route, accessible by mountain bike or bicycle, is lined with explanatory panels retracing the history of this exceptional woman.