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Restaurant La Boulaye, Athée-sur-Cher.

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ADT Touraine / Jean-Christophe Coutand

La Boulaye Restaurant 100% home-cooked, healthy… and globetrotting!

Although tucked away along the cycle path that runs alongside the River Cher, this charming family-run establishment has built up a fine reputation! Guests are more than happy to travel the twenty kilometres or so from the city of Tours to this little haven north of the village of Athée-sur-Cher to savour fresh produce cooked to perfection, with inspiration drawn from the travels of chef Maryline Caron and her husband Stéphane.

A restaurant that surprises and stands out in many respects

Restaurants run by a female chef are rare… In this respect, La Boulaye stands out as an exception in Touraine. Even more surprisingly, Maryline Caron did not follow a ‘traditional’ career path (CAP in cooking, vocational baccalaureate, etc.), but instead enrolled at the Vatel Institute in Paris to study hospitality management. Her mother’s and grandmother’s passion for cooking led her to switch to this field. Her work placements in Touraine, particularly at Le Choiseul in Amboise (which held two Michelin stars at the time, in 1995), reinforced her decision. However, in the last century (yes, really!), it was by no means commonplace to see a woman in the kitchen. Unable to find a role that suited her, Maryline eventually opted for a position as a trainer at a training centre for young apprentices and adults. At the same time,La Boulaye was a leisure park run by her mother, featuring a crêperie and activities for children. Her husband Stéphane often worked alongside her, and when Maryline left teaching, they decided to develop the restaurant, making the most of the surroundings.

A very pleasant place

The restaurant evolved very quickly. So did the cuisine, drawing on its own influences whilst also keeping pace with developments in cooking techniques. For example, when the kitchen was refurbished with a timber structure, the Carons opted for a cold kitchen, without any gas hobs… And, with their very loyal team, they really noticed the difference, particularly in terms of working conditions. Today, La Boulaye is a charming building in Tours, beautifully restored and fitted out. The décor, created by Maryline Caron herself, is in excellent taste, featuring second-hand finds and occasionally repurposed items, such as the piano whose keyboard has been converted into a cutlery tray. In the warmer months, you can enjoy lunch or dinner on the terrace, which is also very pleasant. And to ensure everyone’s comfort, the restaurant does not take bookings for parties of more than six.

Highlights

Fantasy and discovery

Maryline Caron’s cuisine evolves with the seasons and whatever produce is available, always sourced via the shortest possible supply chains. Indeed, she describes her approach as a ‘wandering table’ and her cuisine as ‘healthy and globetrotting’. Here, everything is genuinely homemade, using fresh produce. And as for exotic inspiration, it’s worth noting that the restaurant closes for over three months in winter. Maryline and Stéphane use this time to recharge their batteries abroad , whilst seeking out plenty of inspiration, particularly in Thailand and Cambodia, though not exclusively. The result is cuisine that is fundamentally French (do try the unmissable T.T.P.C., the warm pig’s trotter tournedos – a real treat!), but also subtly infused with exotic flavours. The beautifully presented dishes feature carefully considered pairings of ingredients. And the cooking is impeccable. Add to that a lovely wine list curated by Stéphane, and you’re guaranteed a memorable meal. If you’re in any doubt, order a bottle from his cousin, Franck Breton, a neighbouring winegrower (in Saint-Martin-le-Beau): white, rosé, red or sparkling – all his wines are excellent. A mark of quality, the menu is fairly short (3 starters, 3 main courses and 3 desserts – and let’s not forget: everything is fresh and homemade!), but varied enough to delight every palate.

A pleasant surprise: the set menu, comprising a starter, main course and dessert, is €39.90. It therefore offers an extremely attractive balance between culinary creativity and value for money. On the à la carte menu, the pricing is delightfully straightforward for guests who are hesitant to order the most expensive dish: all starters are €15 (apart from the famous TTPC at €13), main courses are €23 and desserts are €11. The weekday lunch set menu is €26 (main course + a plate of small desserts). If I tell you that the service is friendly and efficient, that the staff here feel at home and remain loyal to La Boulaye, or that the homemade appetisers are excellent, there’s no doubt you’ll be reaching for your phone to book a table. I’d also encourage you to take a look at their website to convince yourself. Finally, bear in mind that whilst the chef rarely leaves the kitchen to come out to the dining room, regular customers, on the other hand, are always happy to pop into the spacious and pleasant kitchen to have a chat with her.

From the fork to the pen

A gourmet and food lover, Hubert Giblet founded the Val de Loire Terres de Gastronomie association, which organises the Automnales de la Gastronomie festival, as well as monthly gourmet walking tours. At the Azay-Chinon Tourist Office, he also oversees events organised under theVignobles & Découvertes scheme.

La Boulaye, in Athée-sur-Cher. Visiting the restaurant